Fairway To Go!

Great news for gourmets on the go... on Monday, August 8, the new Upper East Side Fairway gets a new companion: Fairway Café to Go (240 East 86th St.). Baked goodies, sandwiches, and fresh-roasted coffee are on the menu from 7 a.m.-10 p.m. One special new baked item is the Scarborough herbal bread with parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme.

Eataly's Cheese Slicers

I always find that cheese (and tea, for that matter) never taste as good at home. When I visit places like the Bedford Cheese Shop and the Murray's stand at Grand Central, I feel like some magic is being performed. The cheese specialist takes a glistening silver implement, rakes it across some plump white or yellow slab of deliciousness, and gives me a tempting taste. I proceed to buy a half pound or so, but never experience that same magic. At home, I clumsily gouge out a hunk with the wrong type of knife, or even (gasp) take a bite out of the uncut cheese. I know I am doing something wrong.

Yesterday, at Eataly, I happened upon a display of Paderno World Cuisine stainless-steel wire cheese cutters, parmigiano knives, and cheese slicers. I wondered if they might be the solution to my pressing cheese problem. There were two types of cheese planes, soft and regular, which were each around $19. For a second I contemplated buying both of them, but I couldn't justify it. Maybe I should talk to the cheese specialist, I thought. I went over to him, told him about my at-home cheese issue, and here is his expert advice:

"First of all, as a guy who's been working with cheese for years, I never use cheese planes. I prefer a knife. But if you must have a cheese plane, use the regular one. I would never use a cheese plane for soft cheese. Also, you're storing your cheese all wrong. Never store it in the plastic wrap it comes in. Use wax paper, or Gladware, or even tinfoil."

Thanks, Mr. Cheese Guy! Next time, I'll have to get a lesson in which mostardas go with the different cheeses.

Eataly On A Budget

"Can you believe these prices?" an incredulous tourist asked her friend while perusing the compotes and jams at Eataly. "I'll see you outside..."

I really wanted to take the woman aside and tell her where the deals at Eataly were, but I'm sometimes wary of talking to strangers. So, since I wasn't able to impart this information to her, I will lay it out here. It's true that many of the prices at Eataly are not for the faint of heart, but there are some reasonably-priced gems amid all of the luxury. First of all, the thick slices of mozzarella and tomato focaccia at the bakery can be enjoyed for only $2.80. One piece is easily enough for lunch, and if you feel like splurging, you can add some meat for a dollar. For other bread-based items, the mais bread is around $3, and you can also check out the half-priced day-old bakery bin.

For chocoholics who blanch at the thought of spending almost $18 for a bag of gianduja, the Venchi stand sells a line of delicious little Unico bars for $1.80. (There used to be a lot more varieties; I think the only two left are coconut cream and a bar for those who are reducing the amount of sugar in their diets. I hope they get the cuor di cacao bar back.)

The sandwich bar is always a deal, with all hot and cold panini going for around $7-$8. Vegetarians who miss the hot pressed taleggio and mushroom sandwich will be glad to know that it is making a reappearance next week. By the way, the sandwich bar also offers arancini (stuffed rice balls) with ragu for $3.20 each.

If you get to the cappuccino bar around lunchtime and have a hankering for something savory, you can buy a couple salty prosciutto croissants, which should fill you up. Finally, if you want to sit down to enjoy the Eataly experience but don't have the wallet for Manzo, go to the cheese and charcuterie bar and order yourself a generous caprese salad with bread for $11. (As a side note, I was checking out the new La Birreria menu and there were several items under $20.)

See, you can enjoy Eataly without spending a million dollars!

Eataly: 200 Fifth Avenue: (212) 229-2560.

Cafe Royal and Brooklyn Standard Deli

Greenpoint's Cafe Grumpy has a competitor in this four-month-old (two months, if you count the addition of edibles), maroon-walled Nassau Street cafe, which features Stumptown Coffee. I stopped in today to share a cheese plate with a friend. I was immediately transfixed by the cherry pepper jam that Tanto, one of the chefs, was making, and he let me try a sample, saying, "It's great with cheese." Tanto expounded on the cafe's philosophy of Southern hospitality while I checked out the menu.

The dainty portions served at Cafe Royal would never pass muster in the South, but there's quite a lot to enjoy here; you may just have to order more than you intended. The (slivers of!) Manchego, Fourme D'Ambert and Humboldt Fog in the cheese plate are complimented by lavender honey and fresh berries; herbed quiche from Ceci Cela doesn't stint on the goat cheese, and there's a terrific fingerling potato salad underneath the olive-oil-drizzled frisee and pickled red onions on smoked rainbow trout plate. (Small bites of chilled trout surrounded the salad; I'd been expecting a Roebling Tea Room-style whole grilled trout.) You can order your grilled cheddar sandwich with bacon, avocado or tomato. And I've been told that the biscuits with sausage gravy are something to write home about.

Down the street is the delightful organic/locavore market Brooklyn Standard Deli. Today, there were a few soups, two of which were garlic and broccolini, raw vegan chocolate ice cream, fresh chocolate-chip bread with either banana or pumpkin, and a selection of both vegan and meat sandwiches. I noticed a bag of fingerling potatoes - ah, that potato salad!

Cafe Royal and Brooklyn Standard Deli: 195 and 188 Nassau St., respectively, Brooklyn. (718) 472-2150.

The Plaza Food Hall

Walking into Todd English's brand-new Plaza Food Hall, I heard someone ask, "What are you in the mood for?" It wasn't a question with an easy answer. There was a sushi bar, a tapas bar, a brick oven for pizza, a cheese/charcuterie/bread/coffee/chocolate counter, a fresh seafood display a la Estiatorio Milos, an Asian dumpling bar, and a grill. Almost every seat was taken except a couple at the tapas bar, so that's where I plunked myself down. However, I was to find that every menu is available wherever one sits. (I wonder if this may change in the future, as there are plates of pesto maki flying all the way from the sushi bar to the folks ordering prime rib sliders at the other end of the room.)

I knew I wanted one of the blueberry-filled lemon meringue cupcakes I'd seen at the front, but I decided to pace myself, ordering... artichoke cacio e pepe, brandade fritters, charred octopus salad, grilled asparagus with preserved lemon zest, and lamb skewers from the tapas bar, a sweet Italian sausage pizza from the brick oven, and some crab salad rolls from the grill. (This was my only meal of the day, I swear.) For me, the standouts were: crab rolls... tons of sweet crabmeat tossed in mustardy aioli, spilling out of three toasted onion brioches; the sausage and aged provolone pizza with a marvelous, chewy crust that was not overcharred in the slightest; and the brandade fritters, which were lightly battered codfish cakes in a pool of romesco sauce and olive oil. (The one false note was the artichoke cacio e pepe, which was acrid and lacked pecorino - I think this simple dish of pasta, tossed only with black pepper and cheese, is perfect as is.) The cupcakes (chocolate grasshopper, strawberry cheesecake, and lemon meringue) were made by English's daughter; the homemade strawberry jam inside the strawberry cheesecake was a lovely surprise.

Now I'd like to go back to try the Kobe pastrami, the whole branzino, and the prime rib sliders!

(ETA: I just went back for lunch today, and I want to mention how accommodating the hosts were to my baby-in-stroller. When I'd requested outdoor seating at Sarabeth's, I was refused and told that I'd be creating a fire hazard. But when I got off the escalator and strolled into the Food Hall, a smiling lady led me to the seafood counter and let me park my City Mini right in the corner.)

The Plaza Food Hall: 1 West 59th St., Plaza Hotel, Concourse.

Barnyard Cheese, Meats & Fine Foods

Gougeres are like potato chips; I can never eat just one. The addictive cheese puffs have stopped me from finishing many a meal at Benoit or Artisanal. But now I can stock up on these savory treats without making a dinner reservation; they're available by the bagful at Barnyard. This gourmet market sells all of my favorite things. Cheeses include Pleasant Ridge, Pecorino Toscano, Garrotxa, and chevre noir; co-owner Darren is generous with the samples. For charcuterie, there's Serrano ham and pancetta. The refrigerator is full of goodies like pesto, uncured duck sausage and duck bacon. The pantry abounds with sauces from Il Mulino and Rosa Mexicano, as well as condiments like Maldon sea salt. If you visit, don't forget to pick up a bag of those Taza organic cocoa nibs by the cash register!

Barnyard: 149 Avenue C, (212) 674-BARN. Daily sandwich specials.

Patel Brothers

The weak economy has many of us turning towards comfort food. A dish of rice and beans is protein-packed, filling, and cheap. But did you know that it can also be... exciting? Walk down the vast aisles of Patel Brothers in Jackson Heights and you'll be amazed at all the varieties of rice and beans. The back wall holds a rainbow of orange, yellow, white, green, and brown lentils (urad? toor? masoor? chana? moong? I can't even keep track of them all). There are all kinds of grains - thin and thick flattened rice (poha), giant bags of rice, spicy flour rings, and puffed lotus seeds.

Endless condiments and spices line the shelves. Mango, lime, garlic pickles? Mint or onion chutney? (I think I'll have to bring a dictionary of Indian spices with me the next time I visit. How to use... amla? asafoetida?) There is also a fresh produce section, and a freezer packed with novelties like mint-chili "paneer poppers" and cashew-raisin ice cream. And if the spicy cornflakes in the breakfast aisle are just too adventurous for you, look past them; there's a box of... Cheerios.

Patel Brothers: 37-27 74th St., Jackson Heights, (718) 898-3445.

Urban Rustic

My horoscope was certainly off-base this weekend:

Be picky. Spread before you is a magnificent buffet. However, if you try to take a little bit of everything, you’ll be stuffed before you’ve sampled half of it. You need to recognize the limitations you’re stuck with and pick and choose which things you’ll pick up to taste, and which you’ll have to regretfully pass by. Sure, you might accidentally miss out on something that looks horrible but tastes great, but that’s always a risk. Being choosy now will make you more likely to discover the flavors your soul is craving than being gluttonous ever could.

How can one be picky, and not gluttonous, when visiting Urban Rustic, Williamsburg's "farm-to-market" cafe and grocery? Caeriel, the writer of the above horoscope, couldn't have been aware of the freezer full of Adirondack premium ice cream or the produce section overflowing with beautiful berries and apples from Red Jacket Orchards, sugarplums, heirloom tomatoes (both miniature and regular-sized), Satur Farms arugula, and zucchini and summer squash from Bruno Farms. And she couldn't have known about the wealth of maple products like Toad Hill maple syrup and double maple yogurt from Evans Farmhouse Creamery; and the natural-casing chicken-apple sausage from Aidells, organic skirt steak, Hardwick grass-fed beef patties, and center-cut smoked salmon.

Urban Rustic also features a small cafe, where you can tear into a Mission fig-arugula-goat cheese sandwich and accompany it with a bag of North Fork potato chips. Or maybe you feel like ham and Swiss, and you'll finish your meal with a bittersweet chocolate brownie or a Mast Brothers chocolate bar (locally produced from bean to bar) or even a chilled coconut ("We drill, you drink!"). Then again, you might be intrigued by the "Santanoni," an egg/tempeh bacon/pico de gallo wrap, which you'll consume with a bag of Urban Rustic's own banana chips, or pineapple rings, or milk-chocolate raisins...

I'm no astrologer, but I think that a trip to Urban Rustic might be part of your destiny.

Urban Rustic: 236 North 12th St., Brooklyn, (718) 388-9444.

In Vacanza...

I can't wait for the New York opening of Eataly anymore. Not one more second. So, this week I'm flying to Turin, Italy to experience this giant organic market/foodie theme park for myself.

At Eataly, you can learn to cook like an Italian chef, try over 100 different dishes made with artisanal products at eight themed restaurants, taste numerous wines, and gorge yourself on pasta, salumi, cheese, focaccia, pizza made with fior di latte mozzarella, meat bred from Piemontese cows, and fresh fish. The Website proclaims excitedly: "At Eataly you can eat whenever you want!"

After all of this, there might not be room in your belly, but your mind might still have room for food for thought. The Eataly library contains thousands of food-related magazines and 10 computers to satisfy any craving for culinary information.

You might be wondering, when is this marvel going to set up shop in the United States? I hope I'm about to find out, and I'll report back whatever I hear.

(On the flight over, I plan to whet my palate by reading the brand new Around The World In 80 Dinners: The Ultimate Culinary Adventure. In this gastronomic world tour, authors Cheryl and Bill Jamison visit Indonesia, Australia, Thailand, India, China, South Africa, Brazil, France, Singapore and New Caledonia!)

Despana: ¡Que tienda mas maravillosa!

I've just returned from Spain - well, more accurately, Broome Street, but I might as well have been in Spain for all the Spanish delicacies I just purchased and ate! For eight months, Despaña has been plying Iberophiles with all kinds of good things: chorizo, Serrano ham, sherry vinegar, fragrant Primicia olive oil, tuna-stuffed olives in escabeche, cactus marmalade from the Canary Islands, poached pears, Asturian cheese, tortas de aceite, and licorice bonbons. And that's just the grocery! In the ready-to-eat section, there are various sandwiches on ciabatta (some options: dry-cured pork loin with Manchego, spicy chorizo with Mahon cheese and Basque peppers, and white tuna wth white anchovies) tortilla española (two flavors: potato or chorizo-pepper), desserts like requeson y miel (white cheese and honey), and some really great espresso. (There's only one table, so try to grab it!)

Now, please excuse me while I put away my artichoke hearts, ali oli, artisanal asparagus mousse, whole piquillo peppers, and dry-cured fish sampler.

Despana: 408 Broome St., (212) 219-5050.

Hokkaido Gourmet Food Fair at Mitsuwa

If you'd like to learn firsthand (and firstmouth) about the cuisine of Japan's northernmost island, head over to Mitsuwa Marketplace this weekend. (My friends tell me that the best sea urchin comes from Hokkaido.)

Mitsuwa, 595 River Road, Edgewater, NJ (201) 941-9113. The festival will be held Friday-Sunday.

Mitsuwa Marketplace

Mitsuwa Marketplace is a sort of Disneyland for those who love Japanese food and culture (but especially food). The food court/grocery/shopping complex used to be known as Yaohan, but after changing names and undergoing renovation, it's even more of a food destination than before. Although Mitsuwa is not technically in New York, it's just a $2.00, 30-minute ride from Port Authority's Gate 51. The shuttle operates about every 30 minutes.

I caught the 1 p.m. shuttle today. After being treated to a brief tour of how the other half of the Hudson lives, I was deposited in front of Utsuwa, Mitsuwa's gift shop. Within, I found chopsticks, an assortment of tableware similar to that of Chinatown's Pearl River Mart, tons of Hello Kitty kitsch, and some other tchotchkes. (I bought a couple of those lucky cats.)

It is often said that one should not go grocery shopping on an empty stomach. So, after browsing through the Sanseido bookstore, I walked over to Matsushima, the free-standing waterfront Japanese restaurant. Unfortunately, this decision turned out to be a mistake. Although the menu was extensive and the display of lunch specialts appealing, the grilled fish in my bento was as dry as toast. Perhaps I just ordered badly; the other patrons seemed to relish their meals. At any rate, the waterfront view was pleasant.

Full, if not satisfied, I finally entered the mecca that is Mitsuwa. Now there's where I should've eaten. Since renovation, the food options have multiplied. Today, happy and hungry customers bustled to and fro, taking stock of all the stations. Many crowded around Katsuhana, a stand which sold fried pork and shrimp lunches. There was also a line of people waiting for bowls of steaming udon at Sanuki-Sando-Udon. Ramen sets were available at Santoko. I also noticed the Italian Tomato (pasta) and St. Honore (pastry) stands (these were identical to the ones at JAS Mart).

My map must have been out of date, because it listed Chinese and Korean take-out counters. Instead, there were two other businesses: Iseya, which sold bubble tea, "pizza buns," and small sweet cakes (obviously fresh ones, because an old lady was waiting near the cash register asking, "Are they ready yet?") and a counter devoted to fried croquettes, sweet potato tempura, fried Japanese mackerel, spring rolls and whole purple squids.

Manhattan's Minamoto Kitchoan was represented; I bought one of their chocolate sponge cakes and some green tea maple syrup puddings. I then walked past the woman handing out hot gyoza and noticed Oishinbo, which sold the beloved taiyaki, or sweet red bean-stuffed waffles shaped like carp. But since the cakes were served hot off the iron, I decided to pick up a couple when I was finished grocery shopping. Satisfied that I'd sufficiently cased the place, I started exploring the grocery aisles.

The home appliances were all cordoned off, with a sign explaining that Bergen County's blue laws prohibit the sale of home appliances on Sundays. I found this truly odd! Fortunately, none of the food was off-limits. The produce section featured an impressive variety of root vegetables such as purple yams (on sale), taro, Japanese sweet potatoes, and super-long gobo. There must have been a million types of miso! Moving onto the fish and meat sections, I saw that sliced ribeye for shabu shabu was on sale, as well as yellowtail sashimi. There were spices, there were rices... I excitedly grabbed a jar of yuzu kosho, a spicy citrus pepper which I'd first tried at Ony.

Even the beverage selection was overwhelming! Sake, shochu, soju, plum wine, iced chicory barley pu-erh tea... I bought a small bottle of junmai ginjo, some Boss coffee, and a precious vial of highest quality green tea leaves.

Next it was on to the frozen food aisle. Although I was trying to avoid buying perishable items, I picked up a few frozen eels (both barbequed and non-barbequed). My other purchases were a bottle of seaweed/rice cracker seasoning for rice soup, prepared spicy squid legs, and sesame-seasoned broccoli rape. Oh, and close to the cashier I saw that some sea urchin rice crackers were on sale. How could I miss out on something so exotic-sounding?

Mitsuwa Marketplace: 595 River Rd., Edgewater, NJ, (201) 941-9113.

Mushroom Mania at SOS Chefs

I mistakenly assumed that SOS Chefs was just another imported condiment store. Little did I know that I was soon to discover the shop's true raison d'etre! On a recent visit, while I was admiring the olive oil, one of the owners invited me into the sacred back room. "Here, you can come back and look," she said in the hushed tones one would use when peeking in on a sleeping infant.

She opened the heavy door, we entered a chilled little cave, and my jaw dropped in amazement. There before me was the most abundant profusion of every kind of wild mushroom I could imagine. Red lobster mushrooms, purplish bluefoots, morels, nameko, chanterelles... I don't think I've ever witnessed such a passion for mushrooms!

And now that the season of ripe peaches is giving way to the one of root vegetables, it's time to peruse some new recipes and buy a truckload of wild autumn mushrooms.

SOS Chefs of New York: 104 Avenue B, (212) 505-5813.

Bedford Cheese Shop

Every neighborhood needs a cheese store as fabulous as Williamsburg's Bedford Cheese Shop. I fell in love with this place when the counterperson wordlessly pressed a hefty sample of Comte de Montagne into my hand. The nutty, sweet firm cheese was just what I'd been craving, and soon a quarter-pound of it was mine. (The amusing description for this lovely cheese reads: "This cheese, aged 100 meters above sea level, looks down on you and says, "I'm better than you. Way better.")

Bedford Cheese Shop offers everything from Australian feta to burrata. If you want to make sense of it all, you can purchase Steven Jenkins' Cheese Primer.

But if for some reason you're not in the mood for the cheese display, take advantage of the shelves! Check out the small but well-chosen assortment of bread (I ended up with a round potato-onion loaf), the array of Italian sausages (including sweet and hot sopressata), the jars of PB Loco's Dutch chocolate peanut butter or the candied orange-almond cookies and fig-rosemary wine flats from Red Hook's Fanciulla Foods. Today, I splurged on the aforementioned cheese, a jar of English lemon curd made with free-range eggs, a few sugarplums, some white anchovies, and pear vanilla butter from CMB Sweets!

Bedford Cheese Shop, 218 Bedford Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 599-7588.

Murray's Cheese Shop

I don't know when the stretch of Bleecker Street between Leroy and Morton turned into a mini Chelsea Market, but I imagine that the transformation occurred this fall. In November, Murray's Cheese, having bought a large building, moved across the street and soon started renting space to Amy's Bread and Wild Edibles. Now, a shopper needs several hours to fully absorb the cornucopia of deliciousness that is Bleecker Street.

Tonight, I tackled the new, improved Murray's Cheese. (Amy's and Wild Edibles, don't worry, you're next.) Although the salespeople at the old location had been generous with samples and advice, the store was so cramped that a bit of tension always hung in the air. The new store is vast and welcoming. There's even a room upstairs for cheese education!

I was greeted by an impressive assortment of chorizo and aged cheeses. The first thing that went into my bag was a hunk of Prima Donna, described as a popular Dutch cheese made with Italian cultures. I then looked to my right and noticed many different prepared foods, many involving cheese. There were mascarpone bacon tarts, cheddar onion pies, tins of macaroni and cheese, goat cheese watercress panini... I was speechless!

Walking towards the dairy case on the left, I noticed that Murray's now sells their own smoked salmon in addition to their famous horseradish cream cheese. There were containers of creme fraiche, homemade basil pesto, grillable halloumi cheese, crumbled blue Stilton, fresh mozzarella, and many other goodies. Just past the dairy case were shelves of jarred condiments. I picked up some hazelnut cream, roasted piquillo peppers, and lavender honey with mixed nuts.

Between the dairy case and the cheese case there was dried pasta in bulk, and even a selection of my favorite food: chocolate! Of course I had to pick up the box of single-bean chocolates from ten different countries.

Moving towards the cheese case, I was entranced with a black truffle-dusted Brie and a wedge of baked lemon ricotta. The cheese descriptions on the blackboard were irresistible... how could you not buy a Gruyere Vieux described as tasting "like white chocolate?" (I succumbed.)

Although I somehow resisted the Cerignola olives, I did grab a loaf of Amy's Pugliese bread. However, my shopping bag was now so heavy that I knew it was time to go.

Murray's Cheese: 254 Bleecker St., (212) 243-3289.

Easter Eggs

If you want to quickly prepare a half-dozen hard-boiled eggs for Easter, this gadget comes in quite handy. You'll never run the risk of a cracked shell or a runny yolk ever again.

Another way to enjoy Easter eggs this year is to pick up a loaf of cardamom bread at Amy's Bread. Hard-boiled eggs are baked into the circular loaf. (This bread has been selling out before 11 a.m., so if you miss the deadline, ask for the eggy, sugar-streaked hot cross buns.)

Amy's Bread: Chelsea Market, 75 9th Ave., (212) 462-4338.

Picnic NYC

As summer draws to a close, you might realize that you've let the whole season go by without enjoying one of NYC's great pleasures: a picnic in Central Park.

I myself had this very epiphany while walking down gritty Chrystie Street last night. I don't know exactly why I turned my head near a sign advertising "gas burner parts and supplies," but I'm so glad I did; if I hadn't, I wouldn't have noticed the Picnic NYC food shop. (It's easy to miss.)

The small, bright store is a sight for sore eyes in the middle of all the industrial supplies dealers. Shelves and countertops overflow with many kinds of locally-produced fruit chutneys, cookies, quickbreads and other goodies. There is a serving dish piled high with mini ham and cheese quiches and a tray full of Nutella panini. There is also a small but wonderful selection of cheeses (Piave, Appenzeller, spicy Gorgonzola Picante) from Artisanal Cheese Shop. Tonight, the gracious proprietor, Lex, offered me a taste of the Gorgonzola and I almost bought a pound right there.

Soon, however, my attentions were distracted by the most extraordinary bread-and-butter pickles. Slightly sweet, spicy with hot pepper and pungent with cumin, they were a many-flavored revelation. They could easily put Vlasic out of business forever. But don't take my word for it: attend one of Picnic NYC's weekly pickle tastings! You have three more chances: September 16, 23 and 30 from 6-8 p.m.

Lex was happy to answer any questions I had, and she could describe each product in impressive detail, from its origins to its ingredients. It was gratifying for me to know that I was supporting a cookie baker from Poughkeepsie and a quickbread maker from Long Island.

Central Park is 51 blocks long, so you'll have plenty of room to spread out your luxurious feast. Fill your basket with Picnic NYC's sandwiches, cheese, pickles and cookies, and enjoy the slight breeze as you watch the September sun begin to wane.

Picnic NYC Inc.: 187 Chrystie St., (212) 420-0028.

Sable's Smoked Fish

Do not go into Sable's if you have dinner plans. The jovial countermen at this legendary food shop will ply you with morsel after tasty morsel of smoked salmon. "Try this one. Do you like your salmon saltier or fattier?" And then, when you have exhausted the salmon possibilities (Scottish, Irish, Norwegian, Eastern Gaspe, etc.), they will tempt you with smoked trout, eel, sturgeon and whitefish. By now you will be quite stuffed, but you will not be able to say no to crostini topped with the "World's Best Lobster Salad" and the "World's Best Crabmeat Salad."

This is exactly what happened to me today. I went into Sable's with the sole intention of buying a chocolate babka for my grandmother, when I was suddenly bombarded with complimentary bites of Irish smoked salmon, Sable's "sushi" (smoked salmon wraps filled with salmon salad), and lobster and crabmeat salads. My evident appreciation of the snacks compelled the countermen to keep offering me more of them. I could barely concentrate on my purchase.

Of course I bought more goodies than I'd intended to. But just as I was about to make my exit, a voice called after me, "Wait, have you tried our chopped liver?"

Sable's Smoked Fish: 1489 2nd Ave., (212) 249-6177.

Pasta Fights Back

With the popularity of the Atkins diet, you might think that pasta is on its way out. However, it's valiantly fighting back against obsolescence!

The spectacular Italian grocery store A. L. Bazzini sells a wondrous variety of artisanal pasta, including: Spinosi, Martelli (dried for 50 hours at a low temperature), Latini, Manicaretti Rustichella d'Abruzzo (extruded through hand-carved bronze dies), and chocolate egg tagliatelle produced by La Favorita Figh.

After choosing your favorite pasta shapes, check out the olive oil sale near the front door. Add a bottle to your shopping basket, and then rustle up an aglio olio at home. I would have done the same last night, but I was scheduled to meet a friend for a pasta dinner!

Selected Italian restaurants in New York are known for their homemade pasta, and Vice Versa is one of them. From the moment you see the steel-grey awning, you know this isn't just another Theatre District dive serving unappetizingly mushy spaghetti. No, Vice Versa takes pride in their sea bass ravioli, squid ink tagliolini and strozzapreti with duck ragout. My friend and I enjoyed plump pumpkin ravioli in a classic butter and sage sauce and a tangle of spaghettini with sweet crabmeat in a fresh tomato sauce accented with black olives. (Of course, my carbo-loading was not complete until I'd ordered the gooey warm chocolate cake with vanilla gelato. No matter how many times I see this cake on a dessert menu, I can never resist it.)

A. L. Bazzini Co, Inc., 339 Greenwich St., (212) 334-1280. Vice Versa, 325 W. 51st St., (212) 399-9291.

Titan Foods

I now understand how the Titans earned their appellation; they probably lived on a luscious diet of deep-fried, honey-drenched pastries! I ballooned up to my own titanic proportions visiting Domna's Bakery at Titan Foods, a Greek supermarket in Astoria.

My shopping bags almost broke with the sheer weight of everything I had purchased. At Domna’s, I had loaded up on touloubakia, striated cylinders of sweet fried dough, and assorted soropiasta, delicious packages of filo wrapped around coconut, pistachio, and walnut fillings. I had also bought many jars of preserved fruit (kumquats, rose petals, candied citron, figs with cloves, sour cherries) to mix with creamy strained yogurt. There were bags of rusks, Greek cheeses, bottles of olive oil, some Cretan thyme honey, and a box of loucoumi souzouki, a jelled candy rolled in sesame seeds with walnuts inside. Grape leaves and quince paste completed my shopping list. Oh, and I forgot to mention the wonderful spinach feta pie.

Titan Foods: 25-56 31st St., Queens, (718) 626-7771.